Makina's Cassiel II is a bold statement in the world of microbrand watches, pushing the boundaries of industrial design and challenging the status quo. This chronograph is a testament to the brand's willingness to take risks and create something truly unique, even if it means stepping away from its own successful formula. The Cassiel II is a prime example of how a sequel can surpass its predecessor, and it does so by embracing a more futuristic and angular aesthetic, setting it apart from the classical influences of the original Cassiel model.
One of the most striking features of the Cassiel II is its case design. Makina refers to it as a 'chassis', and for good reason. The 42mm wide and 15mm thick stainless steel case has a dramatic and muscular appearance, with heavy sand-blasting on the upper portions and highly polished haunches. This combination creates a dynamic and almost brutalist-looking aesthetic, making the watch stand out on the wrist. The faceted, angular design is interrupted by a thin, bevelled circular bezel, which adds a touch of luxury and prevents the watch from veering too far into the heavy-tool territory. The screw-down crown and caseback ensure 100-metre water resistance, making it a sports-style chronograph that can handle most normal environments.
The dial of the Cassiel II is where the watch truly comes alive. The hexagonal minute track breaks the outside of the dial into 10-minute sectors, creating an abstract appearance that is framed by the large bevel on the crystal. At first glance, it might appear as if the tri-compax configuration has almost disappeared into the grey channels cut into the matte graphite grey surface. However, upon closer inspection, its functionality becomes evident. The layered dial with cutouts displays the chronograph functions, and the fully luminescent rotating discs beneath it ensure easy readability in the dark. The fork-like split hands and un-lumed day and date displays add to the minimalist look when the lights go out.
Under the hood, the Cassiel II is powered by the Valjoux/ETA 7750 automatic chronograph movement, which is one of the most widely used and recognizable automatic chronograph calibres. With a proven track record, it delivers a 44-48-hour power reserve while beating at 28,800 Vph. Interestingly, it was one of the first watch movements to be partially designed on a computer, a groundbreaking development for the watch industry in the 1970s.
The strap of the Cassiel II is another clever detail. It is an integrated-strap watch, with the black rubber strap tapering down from the sides of the case. Makina has chosen a more unconventional route, with deeply moulded straps on either end of the case featuring contrasting patterns. This breaks the symmetrical appearance and pairs well with the dial, which combines straight lines and curves. The sandblasted steel buckle matches the case, adding to the overall dimensionality of the design.
In my opinion, the Makina Cassiel II is a visually striking chronograph that delivers more and more details the deeper you look. It has a strong sense of identity within the brand while remaining unique, standing out from most other chronographs in its category. The very essence of the microbrand industry is the freedom to experiment with designs, and Makina has leaned into this well, making the brave move to shift away from the original Cassiel design. It is a risky and unusual-looking watch, and one that I understand won't be to everyone's taste, but it has an unapologetic boldness that should be applauded.
The Cassiel II is now available to order directly from Makina during its presale window, which closes on July 20th, with deliveries expected to begin on August 10th. The price is US$1,850 (US$2,100 post-presale price). This watch is a must-have for those who appreciate industrial design and are willing to embrace the unexpected. It is a testament to Makina's commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and creating timepieces that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
